Planes, Trains, and Automobiles

I feel that I truly owe a post to the fabulous transportation that has gotten me to and from France and then the amazing transportation that gets me around Paris. It's so meaningful to a commuter who depends on the public transportation. And we really do have an exceptional system here. Despite the fact that every morning I extend my elbows out and resolve to push anyone who gets in the way of my getting on my train or who does not respect the universal code (walking on the right), I love the Metro. It is one of the absolute most amazing things about this city. It's brilliant. Part of the reason that Paris feels like home now is that I never EVER feel lost. For a girl with little to no sense of direction, this is a remarkable feat. I can be dropped off pretty much anywhere in the city (and just outside), and, as long as the Metro goes there, I absolutely know I can find my way back easily. I'm never nervous about this. My Pass Navigo (72 euros a month for zones 1-3; half of which my employer will eventually be reimbursing) allows me unlimited rides on any of the transportation within the 3 zones.

But, because I am in France, I have the constant reminder of not taking this fantastic system or its workers for granted.

Today is a fabulous day in Paris. We are having a "mega-grève." "Grève" is the all-important French word, meaning strike. If you are interested in living in France, you must must get to know this word. It is an il faut. It will become incredibly important in your life. Some days, it will be nothing more than a huge pain in the butt. Because of certain new laws, trains are supposed to continue operating, even during a grève. The strike, however, causes incredible disturbances in transportation, leaving weary commuters such as myself waiting for trains that normally run every ten minutes for over an hour. Worse, though, is that the trains cannot accommodate all the people wanting to take them when they are running so few and far between. At Gare St. Lazare on a grève day, I've seen people expelled from the train and just popping off it. When the doors close, people have push themselves and everyone else inside even tighter. It is vraiment terrible.

Today, however, is glorious because I (and many many others) cannot even get to work. So, we are not expected to go. It is not just transportation on strike, though. Apparently other unions are also in solidarity, among them education unions. This, I am told, does not actually include me or the other assistants de langue. I have colleagues who are striking today. Unlike American strikes, however, the teachers do not picket outside of their schools. There are no substitutes called in. You strike by not showing up. I believe you are docked a day's pay. Yet, unless you tell them you are striking, the school does not know that you are on strike. They generally assume that you just can't make it because of the simultaneous transportation strikes.

Now, I'm not sure what this mega-grève is actually about. Colleagues of mine who are actually striking were not able to tell me what it was about. Another colleague told me the vague reason: the cost of living is too high and salaries are not matched to it. I'm not sure whether they're actually demanding more money, though. My understanding is that this grève will last only for today and that tomorrow everything should resume normal operation. I am not sure if there are actual demands or that those demands will actually be met. Perhaps people here just really enjoy "making a stand" (read: taking the day off). Either way, I'm pretty grateful.

There is actually going to be a demonstration. I believe about 50,000 people are expected. As usual with demonstrations, it will be passing through my neighborhood. Among the many joys of the Bastille, its historical significance is not overlooked when protesters want to march. I feel proud to be a resident of this highly symbolic neighborhood.

The U.S. Embassy Warden sent this email to Americans registered with the embassy:

"According to local police, there will be a large demonstration organized by the major French trade unions this Thursday, January 29, 2009, beginning at 1:00 p.m. A march will begin at Place de la Bastille and end at Place de l’Opéra. Areas affected will be Place de la Bastille, boulevard Beaumarchais, boulevard Filles du Calvaire, boulevard du Temple, Place de la République, boulevard Saint Martin, boulevard Saint Denis, boulevard Poissonnière, boulevard Montmartre, boulevard des Italiens, boulevard des Capucines, and Place de l’Opéra. Local police estimate the demonstration should end around 8:00 p.m."

This is all pretty exciting. In the States, we don't really get these opportunities to see the police barricading the streets, holding up their riot shields. It's pretty cool, actually.